Original title: Basics of Underwear Design | Classification and Styling of Bra Underwear Design Basics | Bra Classification and Styling Expand the full text The design style of underwear Underwear from the design style can be divided into four categories: pure type, functional type, luxurious type and personality type. The design of modern underwear, like fashion, incorporates trends and fashions, and is becoming more and more formal in design. In the design of underwear, there are also problems of shape, color, material and decorative techniques. Bra, also known as bra, brassiere and bust, is the clothing that supports, covers and protects women's breasts. The specific classification of the bra can be divided into the following aspects: the bra can be divided into the common "short body shape" and the "long body shape" to the waist from the appearance; from the shape, it can be classified into the front buckle shape, the far shoulder shape, the strapless shape and the seamless shape; from the cup cover, it can be classified into the full cup shape, 3/4 cup shape and 1/2 cup shape; and from the use, it can also be divided into common shape, sports shape, girl shape and pregnant woman shape. Bra design is closely related to women's breasts. When designing various styles, we should not only wrap and protect the breasts, but also reflect the purpose of raising and concentrating the breasts in the design. Before designing a bra, we need to know the name of each part of the bra. The name of each part of the bra is different in some companies, but it is basically as follows: 1. Heart position or chicken heart 2. Upper support 3. Lower support 4. Scrape down 5. Upper bundle length 6. Lower bundle length 7. Ears 8. Shoulder strap The design of the bra (I) Classification of cup cover materials Bra design categories are divided into mold cup bra, quilted bra and single-layer lace bra from the perspective of cup material composition. 1. Design of bra with mold cup Mold cup bra refers to the bra whose cup part is made of sponge, spray-bonded cotton or silk floss with high pressure and high temperature to shape the shape of women's chest, which is round, natural, firm and plump. According to the side section of the cup cover, the cup cover is usually divided into a traditional type and a current popular three-dimensional cup cover, wherein the section of the traditional type is uniform in thickness, and the three-dimensional cup cover is thick on the lower side and thin on the upper side. Therefore, the three-dimensional circumference has a better corrective and centralizing effect. Because the cup of the bra is shaped by hot pressing, the design is mainly reflected in the process of molding and the choice of various sponge cup shapes. In the shape of the cup cover, some are pointed and some are round, so the cup cover with natural shape and suitable capacity should be selected. Mold cup bra, also known as seamless bra, usually covers the cup with a layer of the same hot-pressed fabric (not broken into two or three pieces) to make the chest more plump and shapeless, with a smooth and seamless surface, suitable for wearing tights or thin clothes. In addition to the choice of cup cover, the application of different parts of various laces has become the focus of the design of the bra around the mold cup. In addition to being able to decorate the upper side of the chest, it is also used in the lower side of the cup cover; or the cup cover is smooth and clean, and the use of lace in the heart and lower support forms a contrast between complexity and simplicity. In the design of the bra around the cup, the design of the heart position is very important because of the shaping of the cup. The heart position can be divided into width and height, usually the cup area is large and the heart position is high; the cup area is small and the heart position is short. The narrower the heart position, the more it can play the purpose of containing and concentrating the chest, but when it is too narrow, the bra is not close to the body, resulting in empty and loose phenomenon. The width of the heart is usually 1 to 2 centimeters, and its height is usually not more than the chest line. In addition, the size, softness and hardness of the underwire are also important. The underwire is usually attached to the lower part of the bra, which is used to support the sagging chest and squeeze the flat chest to the middle. The size of the underwire should fit the body. If the width is too small, it will not only be worn tightly, but also the bra will move up. If the size is too large, the underwire will lose its function. 2. Design of quilted bra The cup cover of the quilted bra is made by hot-pressing 1000 or 2000 fluffy cotton into a thickness of 0.20.4 cm, sticking it between two layers of knitted fabric, and making it through the change of cup cover cutting and the fixation of the lower edge steel ring, which is also called "cotton cover" for short. Two-piece "bra is horizontal, oblique or vertical opening on the cup to form an upper, lower or left, right two-piece shape, suitable for young women with standard chest shape." "Three-piece" bra is to break the lower circumference into two pieces, the upper circumference is flat and sharp, the lower circumference is round and plump, the shape is three-dimensional and beautiful, suitable for mature and plump women. "Four-piece" bras are usually used for all-encompassing four-piece bras, bra tape measure , with an additional piece on the upper side to cover the chest more firmly and firmly, suitable for women with large breasts and lactating women, or an additional piece on the lower side to strengthen the inward support of the bra. The quilted bra feels soft and comfortable, and can correct and beautify the human body by using different cuts of the cup to shape various shapes. The quilting wrap is divided into two pieces, three pieces or even four pieces in cutting. The finer the break, the more it matches the three-dimensional shape of the chest. Reshaping and correcting the human body in underwear design, on the one hand, we can use the cutting of the cup to shape the three-dimensional full shape by using the change of the chest dart. In addition to fitting the human body, the design should make use of the diagonal cloth and the breast point of the cup to move to the middle and upward, so as to raise and concentrate the breast. On the other hand, the bra can also push and lift the chest in the middle with pads and thickened designs, which are either fixed on the cup or can be removed from the interlayer at will. In the design of quilted bras, underwire is also the purpose, it can hold the sagging or flat chest, so that it is up and close to the middle. The distance from the outside of the chest to the front center line of normal people is 15-17 cm, while the chassis area of the chest is reduced by wearing steel rings, which is generally 13-15 cm. In addition, the size and position of the lower support and the length of the shoulder strap all affect the stability and comfort of the bra. 3. Single-layer bra design Single-layer bra refers to a bra without cotton lining, and the cup part is made of single-layer fabric. The single-layer bra shapes the curve of the chest through cutting and the elasticity of the fabric. The single-layer bra is relatively poor in firmness and shaping, and is suitable for women with full and perfect breasts. The cutting of single-layer bra is more exquisite, and the pulling force of warp and weft of cloth should be used to shape the breast shape. It is usually divided into one piece, two pieces and three pieces in cutting. A single-layer bra is also known as a single-layer lace band, which is made of a single piece of elastic lace, also known as a one-piece. The design of one-piece single-layer bra mainly uses the elasticity of single-layer lace, the lower layer of lace does not use shaping yarn, through one or two darts, relying on the natural bulge of the chest to form a shape. The two-piece type and the three-piece type are that the cup cover is broken into pieces, and the shaping yarn is attached to the lower part of the fabric, which is better than the shape fixing property. The design of single-layer bra is more exquisite in the use of lace. Because it reveals the skin, the color and position of the lace can better show the decorative and sexy feeling of the single-layer bra. (II) Classification of cup cover Bras are available in a variety of cup styles, including Full Cup, 3/4 Cup, and 1/2 Cup. 1. The full-cup bra, also known as the full-wrap bra, can wrap up the whole chest, especially the lateral lower position and the front middle position closely fit the human body, which has a strong role of containment and compensation, and relatively more support for the breast. It is suitable for women with full chest or soft muscles. Because it makes the chest stable, comfortable and secure, it is favored by pregnant and lactating women and older women. 2. 1/2 cup bra is suitable for young women with small breasts. The 1/2 cup cover retains the lower cup cover to support the chest on the basis of the full cup cover, and is decorated with lace on the chest, which is suitable for women with small breasts. Especially after removing the shoulder straps, it can be matched with bare shoulders and low-cut clothes. 3. The 3/4 cup cover is between the former two, using oblique cutting and emphasizing the side pressure of the steel ring, so that the breast can be held up and concentrated in the middle. The 3/4 cup cover is widely used in bra design. It has beautiful shape and changeable style, especially the front center low-cut design, which reveals the exquisite curve of women. (III) Bra design The shape design of the bra includes cushion shape, strapless shape, side strap shape, ring strap shape, front buckle shape and so on. 1. The design of padded bra is to add padding under and on the side of the cup in order to achieve the purpose of pushing and lifting the chest, which is a kind of orthopedic underwear. Suitable for women with flat shapes and small breasts. The gasket has a fixed shape and an insert shape, wherein the fixed shape is that a cotton lining for the gasket is attached to a fixed part, such as the side lower part of the cup cover; and the insert shape is flexible and can be adjusted at any time according to needs. At present, there is a market for padded bra design in China, especially in the southern market. With the help of this kind of underwear, women regain their confidence and show their beautiful posture again. 2. Strapless designs are often used in dresses and off-the-shoulder, chest-length or suspender, vest clothes. This kind of bra has strong solidity and is relatively tight and body-fitting. The shoulder strap can be attached and detached, which is the first choice for women's summer underwear. The key to strapless bra design is fit. The size of the lower support and the elasticity of the back pull frame are very important. If the size is too large, the strapless bra will be loose and slide down. In addition, the cup design of the strapless bra should fit the human body, so that the bra "picks" on the woman's chest. 3. Side strap shape means that the shoulder strap of the bra is on the outside of the shoulder, so that the chest is concentrated and close. At the same time, the side-strap bra is suitable for clothes with horizontal open collars. The design of the side-strap bra should pay attention to the position and length of the shoulder strap, which is too outward to make the shoulder strap easy to slide down. 4. Belt-shaped. The straps are unique. The straps are connected at the back of the neck and wrapped around the neck. It is suitable for collared and backless clothes. The length of the straps of the belt-shaped bra is very important. It can tighten the chest and pull it up, but it is uncomfortable to tighten the neck when it is too tight. 5. The front buckle shape is to move the buckle hook to the chest for easy wearing and taking off. Its pulling force is different from other bras. It is to close the chest to the middle of the front piece of the body, so as to shorten the distance between the chest points and show beautiful lines. However, its shape is relatively poor, and it is only suitable for women with small breasts. In addition, the firmness of the front clasp is very important. The design of the girdle pants The design of the corset Ok, the design of underwear will be sorted out first. Tomorrow, we will continue to sort out the specifications and tailoring of underwear. 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